Best Contemporanea pizza in Rome

In a city built on cracker-thin tonda, the contemporanea crowd does the opposite: a long-fermented, high-hydration dough puffed into a tall, soft canotto rim, topped more like a small plate of cooking than a quick bite. The modern pizzaioli of Rome have a following that takes dough chemistry seriously. The spots below range from neighborhood labs to small groups doing it well. We ranked them on what people who track this style across Rome thought once they had eaten.