NY-Style · New York

New York Pizza: Rules, History, and Where to Eat It

How a 1905 Manhattan storefront turned into the most-copied pizza style in the world. The slice canon, the coal-oven canon, the Brooklyn single-pizzaiolo rooms, and how to spot a real one.

Wide foldable cheese slice on a paper plate at Joe's Pizza on Carmine Street in Greenwich Village, New York, with the storefront counter visible behind.
Joe's Pizza in Greenwich Village, open since 1975 and a canonical Manhattan slice shop.. Photo: OpenPizzaMap place gallery

TL;DR AI summary

  • New York pizza is a large hand-tossed round (18 to 20 inches), thinner than the Neapolitan, foldable in one hand, and cooked in a lower-temperature gas or coal oven for 5 to 8 minutes.
  • The first American pizzeria, Lombardi's, opened in Manhattan's Little Italy in 1905; the canonical coal-oven shops (John's, Patsy's, Totonno's) followed in the 1920s and 1930s.
  • Two cultures of New York pizza coexist today: slice shops descended from Italian-American street food, and single-pizzaiolo Brooklyn rooms run by obsessives who treat dough like a craft.

Pizzerias in New York on the map

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A New York pizza slice is the only food in the world that is sold by the geometry. Most pizzerias measure pizza in pies; New York measures it in slices, because a single $4 triangle is the unit of street eating that built the city's pizza culture. The pizza on top of that slice is a different style from anything its Italian ancestors recognized.

What makes a pizza New York style?

The New York spec is broader than the Neapolitan but still specific. The pizza is a large hand-tossed round, 18 to 20 inches in diameter, with a thinner crust than its Naples parent and a crisp bottom that holds shape under a fold. The toppings are low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella (not the fresh fior di latte of Naples), an oregano-spiked tomato sauce, sometimes pecorino or grated Parmesan, and oil on the rim. The pizza bakes for 5 to 8 minutes in a gas or coal oven at around 260 to 290 degrees Celsius, well below Neapolitan temperatures and over a longer cook.

The outcome is a slice that is large, thin, foldable in one hand, and structurally sound enough to eat while walking. The base develops a crisp bottom and a chewy outer ring with the high-heat blistering Naples produces in 60 seconds reduced to a more domesticated golden brown. New York pizza is the Italian-American adaptation, made for an American gas oven and an American volume of cheese.

Where the style came from

In 1905 a Neapolitan immigrant named Gennaro Lombardi turned a Little Italy grocery store at 53 1/2 Spring Street into the first licensed pizzeria in the United States. Lombardi had worked at a Naples bakery, and he built a coal-fired oven (the wood-fired option that powered Naples was replaced by the cheaper coal of industrial America). The pizza was sized to a 6-cent disk wrapped in paper for factory workers' lunches.

Lombardi's Pizza
4.1

Lombardi's Pizza

New York, United States

€€€€ · 13,900 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "The coal-fired crust is outstanding and the margherita pizza is fantastic. Some found the signature pizza too sour."

Lombardi trained the next generation of Italian-American pizzaioli, who fanned out across Manhattan and Brooklyn in the 1920s and 1930s opening their own coal-oven rooms. John's of Bleecker Street opened in 1929 in Greenwich Village. Patsy's opened in East Harlem in 1933, run by Patsy Lancieri, who became the personal pizzaiolo of Frank Sinatra and Joe DiMaggio. Totonno's opened in Coney Island in 1924 by Antonio "Totonno" Pero, a Lombardi alumnus, and is the oldest continuously operated pizzeria in the United States.

John's of Bleecker Street
4.5

John's of Bleecker Street

New York, United States

€€€€ · 10,186 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "Coal-fired crust perfection, phenomenal pepperoni with cherry peppers. Cheese sticks are average."

The coal oven was the period detail. Coal-fired pizza in New York is now legally protected: post-1990s clean-air ordinances grandfathered the existing coal ovens but banned new ones, so the handful of pre-grandfather pizzerias have a moat the next generation cannot enter. The flavor difference is real (coal burns hotter and drier than gas, which firms the crust and develops the underside char), and once you have eaten one you can tell.

Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitana
4.2

Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitana

Brooklyn, United States

€€€€ · 9 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "Properly proofed dough, 800° F coal oven, and true pizza taste. Service can be a miss, and it's cash only."

The slice shops

By the 1950s and 1960s the second cultural layer of New York pizza arrived: the slice shop. A pizza cut into eight wedges and held under heat lamps, served on a paper plate, eaten standing at the counter. The slice shop is what most New Yorkers actually eat day to day, and it is the format that built the city's pizza economy.

The canonical Manhattan slice shop is Joe's Pizza on Carmine Street, opened in 1975 by Joe Pozzuoli (a Naples-born baker who arrived in Greenwich Village in the 1950s). Joe's serves the platonic ideal of a New York slice: large, foldable, slightly orange from the oil, with cheese that has just enough pull. The Carmine Street counter has been used as a film location in everything from Spider-Man 2 to The Departed.

Joe's Pizza
4.4

Joe's Pizza

New York, United States

€€€ · 26,194 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "delicious classic cheese pizza with a thin crust. Be prepared for long queues and a fast-paced, assembly-line service."

For a slice off the tourist track in the Bronx, Louie & Ernie's Pizza in Schuylerville has been operating since 1947 and runs an old-school slice menu that locals defend against any Manhattan claim. Ernie's spicy sausage slice in particular has a near-religious following.

Louie & Ernie's Pizza
4.6

Louie & Ernie's Pizza

New York, United States

€€€€ · 2,456 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "Great mozzarella, bright sauce, and fennel sausage. Crust can be burned, and it's cash only."

In modern Williamsburg, the slice culture has been reset by L'Industrie Pizzeria, opened by Massimo Laveglia in 2017 on South 2nd Street. L'Industrie runs a tight rotating menu of slices on a 24-hour cold-proofed dough with a thicker, breadier crust than the Manhattan template, and a burrata-and-prosciutto slice that has become the most-Instagrammed pizza in New York. The line starts forming at 11:45 am on weekends.

L'Industrie Pizzeria
4.6

L'Industrie Pizzeria

Brooklyn, United States

€€€ · 3,311 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "Fig and bacon slice, burrata slice, and crust are amazing. Waits can be long, and it's standing room only."

Burrata slice with prosciutto and pesto at L'Industrie Pizzeria on South 2nd Street in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, photographed from above with the slice draped over the counter edge.
L'Industrie Pizzeria in Williamsburg, the modern Brooklyn slice anchor.. Photo: OpenPizzaMap place gallery

The single-pizzaiolo Brooklyn rooms

The other layer of modern New York pizza is the small Brooklyn sit-down room run by one obsessive pizzaiolo. These are not slice shops. They serve whole 12-inch pizzas, sometimes by reservation only, and the lineage is closer to the Italian sit-down tradition than to the Italian-American slice culture.

Di Fara Pizza in Midwood is the oldest of these, opened by Domenico DeMarco in 1965 and famously kept open with DeMarco personally topping every pizza into his 80s (he passed away in 2022; his children now run the shop with the original recipe). Di Fara was the first New York pizzeria to be talked about as a pilgrimage destination by pizza critics, and the wait list at peak hours runs over an hour.

Di Fara Pizza
4.2

Di Fara Pizza

Brooklyn, United States

€€€€ · 4,633 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "The sauce is incredible, basil and cheese ratio is perfect, and the crust is crisp. The Sicilian slice is delicious but heavy."

Lucali in Carroll Gardens is the modern equivalent. Mark Iacono opened it in 2006 after a self-taught journey through the city's pizza history, and runs a 30-seat dining room where the only menu items are pizza and calzones. No reservations, walk-in only, BYOB, and the line forms at 4:30 pm for a 5:00 pm opening. The pizza is paper-thin in the center with a charred, chewy outer rim, and Iacono cuts each one himself with kitchen shears.

Lucali
4.2

Lucali

Brooklyn, United States

€€€ · 3,287 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "One of New York's most celebrated pies — hand-rolled, thin crust with perfectly charred edges and a rich tomato base. It's BYOB and cash-only, and there are no reservations so expect a wait."

Juliana's, the DUMBO pizzeria reopened by Patsy Grimaldi in 2012 in the exact storefront where he had run Patsy's Brooklyn from 1990 to 1998, sits directly next to the modern Grimaldi's (the chain that bought his name when he retired the first time). Grimaldi unretired specifically to compete with the chain version of his original. Juliana's has gone on to top several 50 Top Pizza USA rankings.

Juliana's
4.6

Juliana's

Brooklyn, United States

€€€€ · 10,086 reviews

Pizza Lovers say: "Thin, blistered crust, fresh mozzarella, and flavorful guacamole. More sauce would be nice."

How to spot the real thing

The slice. Real New York slice droops at the tip when held flat and folds in half along its centerline without cracking. If it stays stiff and flat, the crust is too thick or the cheese has set too far. If it splits or breaks when folded, the dough was over-proofed or under-cooked.

The fold. New Yorkers fold lengthwise (along the long axis of the wedge) into a U-shape and eat from the wide end inward. Tourists pile a knife and fork at it. Both work; only one signals local.

The price. A standard cheese slice in New York in 2026 is $3.50 to $5 at a real slice shop. The $1 slice (Two Brothers, etc.) is a different category and not what locals eat. A whole 18-inch pie at a slice shop runs $20 to $28; a sit-down Brooklyn room like Lucali or Juliana's runs $25 to $35 for a single pizza.

The smell. A good coal oven leaves a smoky, mineral undercurrent on the crust that you can taste in the first bite. Gas-oven pizza is cleaner but flatter on the back palate. Coal-fired Manhattan rooms are the only ones that smell like a pizzeria from the sidewalk.

Browse the full coverage of New York on the New York hub, the Brooklyn cluster at the Brooklyn page, or check the global rankings inside the NY-Style style hub.

Q & A

Frequently asked

What makes a pizza New York style?
A large hand-tossed round (18 to 20 inches) on a low-moisture mozzarella with tomato sauce and oil, baked 5 to 8 minutes in a gas or coal oven at around 260 to 290 degrees Celsius. The crust is thinner than the Neapolitan with a crisp bottom and a chewy outer rim, foldable in one hand for street eating.
Who opened the first pizzeria in America?
Gennaro Lombardi, in 1905 at 53 1/2 Spring Street in Manhattan's Little Italy. Lombardi's still operates a few doors down at 32 Spring Street with a coal-fired oven and is the origin point most NY pizzaioli draw their lineage from.
What is the difference between New York pizza and Neapolitan pizza?
New York pizza is larger, thinner, foldable, baked longer at a lower temperature with low-moisture mozzarella; Neapolitan is smaller, softer-centered, baked in 60 to 90 seconds at much higher heat with fresh mozzarella. The NY style was adapted by Neapolitan immigrants to American ingredients and gas ovens in the early 1900s.
Why do New Yorkers fold their pizza?
The slice is too big and too thin to hold flat in one hand. Folding it lengthwise gives the crust enough structure for street eating without a plate, and it concentrates the sauce and cheese into the bite. Eating with a knife and fork is fine, but it is a tourist tell.
What is the oldest pizzeria in New York?
Lombardi's in Little Italy (1905) is the oldest by lineage, though it briefly closed in 1984 and reopened in 1994. Totonno's in Coney Island (1924) is the oldest continuously operated pizzeria in the United States, and John's of Bleecker Street (1929) has run without a break since opening.